Wolf kite

This kite is designed by Naud van der Laak and made for moderate to strong winds (3 to 5 Bft.). At the kite weekend in Vlissingen I saw this model high in the air again and got permission to use the model for publication.

N.B. This description may be very extensive at certain points. This may make it easier for novice kite builders to copy the model. Experienced kite builders often have enough with a drawing.

SAIL

A cardboard template is required to make this kite. Mark out the dimensions for the half kite on the cardboard according to the drawing and cut out the template along a ruler. Allow for a seam (7 mm extra) at the centre seam A-A. The kite consists of two halves. The lower and upper fields are joined together by a flat stitch seam at A-A. By folding this large sheet in half lengthwise and pinning it together, the template (of the half head) can be placed exactly along that folded side and pinned. The head can now be cut out or sealed. When the sheet is unfolded again, the contour of the head can be seen. We used spinnaker seam tape for the edge finishing. (If you want to make a rolled hem, take the seam allowance into account when making the template and reinforce the edge with twill tape if necessary). Also cut out the fins and tunnels. The side of the fins that we need to connect to the kite deck gets 2 x a hem allowance (see detailed drawing). The dimensions of the tunnels are determined as follows: (rod diameter x 3.14) + (4 x hem allowance) = (9 X 3.14) + (4 x 7mm) = 28 + 28 = 56 mm. Tunnel strips of 56 mm width. Then sew dacron reinforcements on all points and internal corners. By attaching these first, the edges on the outside of the kite are neatly concealed behind the hem tape. Then start hemming the fins. Only on the side that is going to be sewn to the kite deck do we make a rolled hem. Turning over once and stitching is sufficient. Then hem the edges of the kite deck. A difficult job in those places where there is a kink in the cloth at a so-called internal corner. However, this can be done by sewing as far as possible into such a corner and then cutting off the hem tape with excess length. By cutting the hem tape at the fabric fold to exactly in the corner, you can sew the tape on the bottom and top past the corner. Then simply cut away any excess. Starting in such an internal corner is done like this again. First make a cut in the fabric fold of the tape to slide it over the corner and then continue sewing. Later sew these flaps on and cut away any excess. Now the eyes can be made. By keeping some space under the seam A-A and the uprights, the place where the eyes should be can be determined. To do this, first draw the eyes on a piece of cardboard and cut it out. These templates help to determine the place. Mark the exact place on the kite deck and first sew a reinforcement of twill tape or dacron tape on the back. The fabric that finishes the hole is then folded over this. By doing this the edge of such an eye will not stretch. Once everything is hemmed the fins can be pinned to the deck. They run exactly in line with the uprights. Draw that line with a soft pencil on the deck where the fins should come. Then pin the fins and sew them to the deck. Now comes the making of the 8 tunnels for the uprights. All sides are only hemmed. A narrow strip of dacron can be stitched into the hem of the short sides to reinforce the opening. At the back of the kite these tunnels should come exactly behind the fins and so tightly around the uprights so that there is little play. The forces come via the fins and the kite deck to those tunnels that keep the frame in place. The whole thing must be firmly connected to each other. By pinning the tunnels or using double-sided tape they can be secured exactly to the right size. The tunnels are interrupted at the point of the piece of hose. The spreader will be placed in this later. Now all that remains is a number of small tunnels of e.g. dacron at the tensioning points. With this we fix the frame against turning away. At all corners tensioning or attachment lines must also be sewn. Do not make these too short. Sew another small loop to each fin for the bridle attachment. At the point where the upright and the beam cross, a lace must be attached to the darcon reinforcement. With this we fix the beam against the upright.

TAIL

This model cannot be flown without a tail. It must be a tail of at least 8 meters long. By cutting strips of 12 cm wide (perpendicular to the fabric) and sewing a (preferably flat) kite line onto these strips, a sturdy base is created. A kite tail (frayed tail) only works well if it builds up a lot of air resistance. We achieve this by cutting the fabric perpendicular to the line with gaps of 1.5 cm. Be careful, do not cut the line! It is sewn on for strength, so you can pull the tail firmly without fear of tearing the fabric. That length of 8 meters means hundreds of cuts with scissors, but the result is effective. Make a loop at both ends for attachment to the kite. We also make the V-line in the same way. We make two frayed strips of 80 cm each between the two uprights. They are tied together and we make a loop here. The tail will be attached to this later. The attachment to the kite can be done by loops around the stand. The sewing machine can now be put aside.

FRAME

The stands are cut to length. A saw cut is made at both ends. The attachment or tension line will be placed in this later. Insert the stands into the tunnels with the pieces of hose slid over them. These pieces of hose must first be provided with a hole. By folding them to the side when sliding them up, the frame can be slid through the hole in the side and the possibility is created to place the spreader in it. In order to better absorb the forces on the ends of the stands, it is advisable to wrap the ends and varnish them. This creates a strong tension. Once both stands are in place, the spreaders can be cut to length. Make them slightly overlength so that everything is nicely tensioned. Finally, slide the split caps onto the beam and tie the tension lines to length. The beam is fixed at the intersections of the beam/stand using the laces. Now the bridle can be attached. to the top

BREAST

A line runs from the top fins in which an aluminium ring must be placed halfway. The distance from the tip of the fin to the ring must be 87 cm. In the same way, tie a continuous line to the bottom fins where a ring is placed at 134 cm from each fin. These two rings are connected to each other by a third line that also contains a ring> This is the bridle ring where the kite line arrives. This ring can be moved up or down as required. Always use a cat's claw knot as a knot. To make the kite stable, the tail must be attached to the V-line. The kite can now be tested.

FLYING

Go to your kite spot and try out this model at wind force 3 Bft. Attach the kite line to the bridle ring and give line up to ±10 metres. If necessary, correct the position of the bridle ring and then give more line. You will experience that the model pulls firmly. Good luck with making it and have fun with your new acquisition!

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