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± 0.4 m’ Chicara cloth Black
± 0.3 m’ Chicara cloth colour 1
± 0.3 m’ Chicara cloth colour 2
8 m’ spinnaker seam tape
2 RCF Ø 6 mm for the 1m long upright
1 RCF Ø 6 mm for the top spar 1.5 m long
1 cross piece with V-position for Ø 6 mm
1 nylon end cap Ø 6 mm
3 split caps Ø 6 mm
1 brass coupling bush int. Ø 6 mm
5 m bridle line
1 bridle rings
1 dacron for reinforcements
SAIL
We have chosen spinnaker seam tape as the edge finish. That is why we do not need to calculate any extra seams on the outside of the kite. Where the fields are sewn together, we do need to cut out a seam! In order to be able to cut out the fields correctly, a template of each field is essential. Make these templates from sturdy cardboard. We use each template twice, for the left and right side of the kite. The cutting out of the fields can now begin. The direction of the fabric is very important for the upper black parts. When tensioned and during flight, the greatest forces are exerted on the outer sides.
Once all the fields have been cut out, the sewing machine can be tensioned. In order to ensure symmetry later, we make a separate left and a separate right part. The stand is the separation. First join fields A and B together. Take your chosen colour scheme into account. Fold the seam towards the black area. Stitch the seam flat and do the same for fields C and D. Both parts can now be stitched together. The upper part is now assembled. The long point at the bottom of the kite will be attached to this later. We now sew the dacron reinforcement at the points where the spar will be stretched. This will be nicely finished behind the hem tape.
Now we finish the fabric edge at plane D by sewing the spinnaker hem tape around it. Before we attach planes E to the upper planes, we have to finish the edges with hem tape. Once this is in place, these planes can be sewn to the upper planes. The left and right sides are assembled and can now be joined. Only sew the middle seam of the kite after we have placed the sides exactly on top of each other and pinned them. It is now still possible to correct the symmetry. If both sides are the same, the middle seam can be placed. Fold the hem over to the darkest plane and stitch the hem flat.
Now we are going to sew the two layers to the upper point. This will make a bag in which the stand will be placed. Don't make the opening too wide, that looks neater. Then the dacron reinforcements are placed at the cross piece and at point T where a bridle attachment point is planned. We finish the top edge with hem tape at plane A. Here too, the outer edge of the bag is neatly finished by the hem tape. We still have to sew the tension lines on the corners and the sewing machine can be put aside. to top
FRAME AND BREATH
Slide the cross piece onto the stand and place the nylon cap on the top, the stand consists of two parts so we attach the coupling sleeve to one part of the stand. The split cap goes at the bottom of the stand. Slide the stand into the dacron bag at the top of the kite and feed the stand through the dacron sleeve at the bottom of the kite. Loosely tie the tension line to the split cap. Now determine the beam lengths and saw them off with a little excess. Place the split caps and put everything together. If the sail wrinkles, loosening/tightening the tensioning cord can provide a solution.
In order to attach the bridle, we burn a small hole through the dacron reinforcement and the sail with a hot nail. We tie the bridle line around the stand at point T, this line should be approximately 2.5 m long. A bridle ring is included in this line. to top
FLYING
First try out the kite in a calm wind. The kite can fly perfectly well without a tail. Find the right point for attaching the bridle ring by setting different positions. The bottom bridle line should not be quite tight. The kite cannot fly completely without this line because then a "nodding" behavior can be seen.
Have fun with this new acquisition!